this assembly, you will need the remaining portion of the 1/8" x
3/8" x 24" basswood strip that you used for the rear deck hatch
support, the previously built cockpit deck hatch and the two
cockpit deck halves to complete this sub-assembly.
The two cockpit deck halves will be fitted in this, and
They are not to be glued together or glued to
the cockpit sub-deck at this time. In fact, they will be
some of the last parts installed in the boat. This is to allow
you to paint the interior of the cockpit separately from the
cockpit deck, which will greatly ease the painting and make for
a neater finish. Also, ballasting the boat will be simplified
without the cockpit deck installed. So, do
glue the cockpit deck halves together until told
to do so!
half of the cockpit deck into position on the sub-deck. If
necessary, sand the ends and slots in this part to fit it in
position. Then, align the straight side of the cockpit deck with
the joint in the subdeck and pin it in position.
When fitting the second half of the cockpit deck, be sure to
align the edges of the hatch opening so they are flush, as
remaining half of the cockpit deck to the sub-deck in the same
manner as the previous half. Butt the two cockpit deck halves
together and pin this half to the sub-deck.
Rear Deck Hatch
the nylon latch on the hatch tongue, as shown, so that one half
of the latch hangs over the edge of the tongue. Mark the
location of the hole in the latch on the tongue with a pencil
mark. Drill a 1/16" hole through the hatch, at the pencil mark.
To secure the
hatch, reach under F4 with your finger and rotate the latch over
the hatch support, as shown.
the latch to the tongue with the #2 x 1/4" sheet metal screw.
Tighten the screw only enough to allow the latch to pivot with
completed rear deck hatch in the deck opening. If necessary,
sand the edges of the hatch to obtain a good fit.
At this time, the rear deck hatch will slide fore and aft. This
is OK. Later in construction, parts will be added to trap the
hatch, preventing it from moving.
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